‘pro source’ Tagged Posts

Pro Tack

Pro Tack anybody out there know anything about setting up a pool table? particularly setting the slates into place? so i just got a pretty decent used billiard table the other day. there was no f...

 

Pro Tack

Pro Tack
anybody out there know anything about setting up a pool table? particularly setting the slates into place?

so i just got a pretty decent used billiard table the other day. there was no felt on it but i got some new. i am confident i can felt it myself and save $200 they tried to charge for a "proffesional" to come out and do it for me. and thats on top of the $250 i just paid for the felt alone. 450 total just for a sheet of new felt to be tacked to an 8' x 4' flat surface by a "pro"? i think not, so im doing it myself!
now the only thing that i cant figure out is that there appears to be some sort of joint compound that had been used where the slates butt together. like a type of mortar or fix-all type compound ? if anybody the the specific stuff or just what type of product it may be that would all help and would be absolutely awesome!

Spend the extra $200 - and watch carefully, then you do it yourself next time!

The initial setup is the most difficult. If you insist upon doing it your self, check the compound to see if water softens it. If so, remove it (it will be DuRoc water soluble putty), if it does not soften, you are probably in trouble (it is Bondo and will chip the slate when you remove it). Be very careful when you are setting it up and leveling the bed. I would recommend using beeswax to fill the joints unless you live in a hot environment, then the DuRoc is best (IMO).

You may want to check:

http://www.simoniscloth.com/Installation.htm

And

http://www.mccauleyweb.com/secrets.htm

I have not seen this book myself, but I've heard that it is good.

And

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.sport.billiard/browse_frm/thread/f19069a028a8766b/e6828b75a9de4e4e?lnk=gst&q=table+recovering&rnum=32#e6828b75a9de4e4e

I can no longer recommend this group in general as it has turned into a very sophomoric flame-war battlefield lately. There is some very good information, if you can stand the collateral damage....



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Wood Finishing Like the Pros - Carpentry and Woodworking Tips

When it comes time to finish your project you need to know that for wood treatments it is either stain, paints or finish. They are each providing a different outcome. To tint the wood you would use wood stains. Paints sit on the wood and protect it. Some finishes are pretty much paint without any color added to it. They are the ones that give that clear protection.

Probably one of the most well known finishes is varnish. It's a great finish because the more layers you use the stronger the finish. The major problem with varnish is it dries slowly which increases the chance for dust to get into the finish. If possible, try to do your finishing work in an area where there is the least amount of dust.

A mixture of resins and synthetics boiled together is what makes varnish. If you are using polyurethane's then you are simply using a varnish that has had a polyurethane resin added to it. When you are using a varnish that contains a higher quantity of oil, it makes the product more flexible and this is known as Spar varnish, which makes it perfect for outdoor use because of it flexing properties.

If you are going to use varnish as your finishing product then you need to know how to apply it properly. Working in a dust free room is a priority. Then using a tack cloth wipe down your project as it must be perfectly clean. Put some of your varnish into a container that you can work out of .That way if it becomes contaminated with dust you can just discard that amount. Apply the varnish using long steady strokes with a brush working in the grain direction. Tip off your brush strokes. Wed sand in between coats with fine sandpaper.

There is also wiping varnish but read the labels carefully before using this product to be sure that it is varnish and not tung oil.

Then there are oil and varnish blends. They work similar to an oil finish but have a bit more protection to them but they are not for building layers.

Shellac is a natural resin but not is as durable as the others are. It's not good for items such as kitchen counter or cabinets for example. It is a fast drying product though and you can get it in various colors.

Lacquer is usually applied with a spray gun but the fumes can be dangerous and the dry dust is explosive.

There are some really good what are labeled as water based finishes but they all have a certain amount of solvent in them. Their two weaknesses is they show brush marks and they bubble when you are applying them so use a synthetic brush for this.

Proper sanding between coats of your finish is one of your most important steps. Be sure to use fine sandpaper. The sanding removes bumps and uneven spots. Especially made sandpaper for wet sanding is ideal.
Really, take the time to research the various finishes you are going to use to get the best application and intended use from them.

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